Garden chair 2

The Adirondack chair originated at the camps and resorts of New York’s Adirondack mountains during the late 1800s. It was the solution to
adding a little comfort while in the wilderness, and has become an outdoor classic. This version, like its forebears, is designed for maximum
comfort with a deep seat, spacious arms and a slanted back. When you want to take a nap, just pull up the matching footrest. When summer’s
gone, you can fold up both the chair and footrest for easy moving and storage. Part of the beauty of this chair is its simple construction. You’ll
gain experience with cutting curves using a jigsaw or band saw and with precision assembly by making sure that the seat and back slats are
identically spaced apart.




TOOLS REQUIREDSHOPPING LIST
WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS
CUTTING LIST
Hand Tools
– Clamps
– Hacksaw
– Vise flat file
Power Tools
– Tablesaw or circular saw with rip and
crosscut blades
– Electric drill with countersink bit
– Jigsaw or band saw
– Belt or drum sander
– Router with 1/8"or 3/5" roundover bit
Miscellaneous
– Pencil
– Tape measure
– Safety glasses
– Carpenter’s glue
– 120, 150 and 220-grit sandpaper
– Clean, lint-free cloths
– Respirator
– Gloves for finishing
– Mineral spirits
– Water-filled metal container with
tight-fitting lid (for oil-based stains
and finishes waste products)
– Paint pad or good quality, naturalbristle
brush
Recommended Finish
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Tinted Wood
Protector in Natural Cedar. (Also available in Honey
Gold, Rustic Red, Nutmeg Brown and Coastal Gray)
Alternate Finish
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus Tinted
Wood Protector, available in five colors: Honey Gold,
Natural Cedar, Rustic Red, Nutmeg Brown and Coastal
Gray.
Item Quantity
1x8 clear pine 6'
1x6 clear pine 37'
1/4" x 1-3/4" carriage bolts 6
1/4" flat washers 22
1/4" cap nuts 10
1/4"x 3" hanger bolts 4
#8 x 1-1/2" flat head wood screws
(brass, bronze or stainless steel) 90
1/8"x 3/4"stainless steel
or brass bar stock 12"
5/8"diameter decorative pegs 2
Overall Dimensions: 41-1/2"H x 22"W x 5-1/2"D
Key Part Pcs. Dimensions
A Seat supports 2 3/4" x 5" x 36"
B Arms 2 3/4" x 6-3/4" x 31"
C Legs 2 3/4" x 4" x 20"
D Arm braces 2 3/4" x 4" x 5"
E Seat slats 8 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20"
F Back slats 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 27"
G Back slats 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 29-1/2"
H Back slats 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 32"
J Front brace 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 21-5/8"
K Middle brace 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 21-1/2"
L Bottom brace 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20"
M Arm supports 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 23"
N Hinge bars 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 6"
P Slats 6 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 16"
Q Sides 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 16"
R Legs 2 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 9-1/2"
S Stops 2 3/4" X 3/4" X 2"
Recommended Wood – Pine (stain grade)
Alternate Wood – Fir or any type of construction-grade lumber
NOTE: The hardware used for your furniture can be ordinary
plated steel if it will be kept indoors. But if you want a really
weatherproof and handsome piece, use stainless steel,
bronze or brass. These materials will enhance the look of
stained furniture.


WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS
CUTTING LIST
Hand Tools
– Clamps
– Hacksaw
– Vise flat file
Power Tools
– Tablesaw or circular saw with rip and
crosscut blades
– Electric drill with countersink bit
– Jigsaw or band saw
– Belt or drum sander
– Router with 1/8"or 3/5" roundover bit
Miscellaneous
– Pencil
– Tape measure
– Safety glasses
– Carpenter’s glue
– 120, 150 and 220-grit sandpaper
– Clean, lint-free cloths
– Respirator
– Gloves for finishing
– Mineral spirits
– Water-filled metal container with
tight-fitting lid (for oil-based stains
and finishes waste products)
– Paint pad or good quality, naturalbristle
brush
Recommended Finish
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Tinted Wood
Protector in Natural Cedar. (Also available in Honey
Gold, Rustic Red, Nutmeg Brown and Coastal Gray)
Alternate Finish
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus Tinted
Wood Protector, available in five colors: Honey Gold,
Natural Cedar, Rustic Red, Nutmeg Brown and Coastal
Gray.

2

BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always
discuss them with your instructor.
• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting
a tool to the project lumber.
• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles and the appropriate
respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners
or other solvents.
• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and
put away all portable tools.
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY
PROCEDURE
Building the Chair
1. Rip the boards and then crosscut all the parts to length according to
the plan and CUTTING LIST. With a jigsaw or band saw, cut all the curved
pieces. Use a 1" grid of pencil lines to transfer the patterns to the wood.
Woodworker’s Tip: Use a router with a roundover bit to soften
selected edges for comfort and better appearance, such as the top
edges of the seat and back slats and the arms.
2. Sand the curved edges with a belt sander or drum sander chucked
into an electric drill. Sand all the parts.
3. Drill holes in all the parts that need them, except for the holes in the
seat supports (A) where they attach to the legs (C). In each seat slat
(E), drill two holes 3/8" from each end.
Woodworker’s Tip: A combination drill and countersink, used in
a drill press or drill guide, will enable you to make quick and
consistent holes on the slats.
4. Screw the hanger bolts into the ends of the braces (K, L). Clamp the
edges of the boards to prevent the wood from splitting (Fig. 2).
5. Screw the slats (E) to the seat supports (A). Start with the slat
farthest back, then do the one at the front. Space out the remaining
slats and screw them in place. You may need to file flat surfaces on
the curved edges of the sides so the slats rest firmly.
6. Assemble the back. Screw the slats to the bottom brace (L), then
attach the middle brace (K) 10-1/4" above the bottom brace.
7. Screw the arms (B) to the arm supports (M), and the arm braces (D)
to the legs (C), being sure to leave the braces protruding above the
tops of the legs (see detail in Fig. 1).
8. Bolt the hinge bars (N) to the back assembly. Use washers between
the wooden pieces.
9. Bolt the arm supports (M) to the legs (C) and back, and clamp the
legs to the seat assembly. Then screw the hinge bars to the seat supports.
10. Adjust the legs (C) so they are square, then drill through the holes
in the leg and into the seat supports (A, Fig. 1). The peg must have a
firm fit in its hole, so be sure to make a test hole first on scrap. Bolt the
legs to the seat, insert the pegs, and screw on the front brace (J).
11. Attach the front brace (J) to the legs.
Building the Footrest
12. Cut all pieces to size, then cut and sand the curves as you did those
of the chair.
13. Cut the angled ends of the legs (R). Drill screw holes in the slats,
bolt holes in the sides, and chop a shallow mortise for the metal hooks
(see the plan detail in Fig. 1).
14. Bend the hooks in a metal vise, cut them off with a hacksaw, and
file or grind smooth. Use a slat (P) as a guide for drilling clearance
holes for the screws.
15. Screw the slats and hooks to the sides (Q) and bolt on the legs (R).
As with the seat, you may need to file flat surfaces on the curved edges
of the sides so the slats rest firmly. Do not insert screws too close to the
narrow ends of the sides.
16. Hook the footrest to the chair and adjust the legs so they are flat on
the ground. Clamp them there. Screw the stops (S) to the inside so that
when the legs are unfolded the stops will keep them in the correct
position (see the plan detail in Fig. 1).
PROTECTING YOUR PROJECT
Any type of wood that’s used outdoors needs protection from water
damage. There are a variety of protective coatings available, including
clear and tinted wood protectors and semi-transparent and solid stains.
Each of these finishes has a different look and maintenance requirement.
We’ve chosen Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Tinted Wood
Protector in Natural Cedar to give your project complete protection.
This product provides maximum strength waterproofing in a coating
that also resists mildew and U.V. (ultraviolet radiation in sunlight)
damage. This product can be applied to damp, freshly cleaned wood
so you can clean and treat your project in one day. Plus, the transparent
tint will give plain pine just the right amount of rich wood tone. This
product is also available in Honey Gold, Rustic Red, Nutmeg Brown
and Coastal Gray sheer wood tones.
Woodworker’s Tip: Always be sure to choose a waterproofer that
exceeds industry standards for waterproofing on wood.
STAINING AND FINISHING
FINISHING TIPS
• Coverage: The approximate coverage of Thompson’s® WaterSeal®
Advanced Tinted Wood Protector on pine is 200 square feet per
gallon. A gallon of Thomson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus
Tinted Wood Protector will cover about 200 to 300 square feet.
• When you apply Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Tinted Wood
Protector or Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus Tinted
Wood Protector, do not mix it with other waterproofing products,
because variations in the final appearance of the surface being
treated may result. Also, do not thin these products.
–3–



Recommended Finish
For maximum strength protection against water damage, use
Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Tinted Wood Protector.
17. Read and follow the directions found on the back of the can.
Be sure that both surface and air temperature are above 50° F and
remain above freezing 24 hours after application. If you’re working
outside do not apply product if rain is forecasted within 48 hours
of application.
18. Before applying Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced Tinted Wood
Protector, the wood surface must be free of all dirt, mildew, mold,
waterproofers, wood stains and other contaminants. Then do a trial test
before full application. The surface may darken slightly with application
and color appearance is different when the wood is fully dry.
19. Shake or stir contents for a minimum of 2 minutes before use.
Intermix all containers (of the same color) to be used to assure
color uniformity.
20. Apply using a paint pad or brush. For small projects, a brush is the
preferred applicator.
21. Apply only one thin, even coat. DO NOT APPLY A SECOND COAT.
A heavier or additional coat will not improve performance or appearance.
Avoid puddling. Tackiness will result if over-applied. May also occur
after application if overnight temperature falls below 50°F within
48 hours of application. Drying time will vary depending on wood surface
and humidity. Allow a minimum of 12 hours before using the chair.
22. Clean brushes and equipment with soap and water. Dry product
can be removed with mineral spirits.
Alternate Finish
23. Before applying Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus Tinted
Wood Protector, read and follow the directions found on the back of
the can. Be sure that both surface and air temperature are above 50°F
during application and for 48 hours after application, and if you’re
working outside, do not apply product if rain is forecasted within
24 hours of application.
24. The surface must be free of all dirt, mildew, mold, waterproofers,
wood stains and other contaminants. If the surface is damp or wet from
cleaning or weather, allow the surface to dry thoroughly (a minimum of
48 hours) before application.
25. Before applying this product over the entire surface, a small trial
patch is recommended to verify color.
26. In most applications, only one light coat is necessary. Apply with a
brush, roller, paint pad, or by dipping the piece into the product.
Regardless of which application method is used, remove excess within
15 minutes by redistributing it to drier areas or wiping it off.
27. Oiliness and tackiness will result if over-applied or applied to wet
or damp surface or if overnight temperature falls below 50° F within
48 hours of application.
28. Allow at least 48 hours to dry before you sit in the chair. Drying
time will vary depending on the substrate, temperature and humidity.
29. Clean brushes and equipment with mineral spirits, then rinse with
clean water.
IMPORTANT: If using oil-based Waterproofer Plus Wood Protector,
place rags, steel wool and waste immediately after use in a sealed,
water-filled metal container.
NOTE: For all waterproofing products, the length of protection will
vary depending on environment. Perform the following splash test
once a year to see whether reapplication is necessary. Sprinkle water
on various sections of surface to be sealed. If water absorbs and
darkens color of substrate within 5 seconds, the surface is porous
and considered ready to be treated. If water beads up or otherwise
sits on top of surface, then surface doesn’t need protection at this
time. For maximum protection from color change and other damage
caused by the sun, reapplication is recommended every year. Vertical
and horizontal surfaces will experience color changes at different rates.
PRODUCT SAFETY
For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the
safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow
them to the letter. Typical safety advice and instructions will contain
information such as the following:
DANGER: Rags, steel wool and other waste soaked in these products
may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately
place rags, steel wool and waste after use in a sealed, watertight, waterfilled
metal container. Dispose in accordance with local fire regulations.
When using Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Waterproofer Plus Tinted
Wood Protector:
CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS. Keep
away from heat and open flame. Use only with adequate ventilation.
For Exterior Use Only. To avoid overexposure, if treating enclosed
exterior rooms or porches, open windows and doors or use other
means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If
you experience eye watering, headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh
air, or wear respiratory protection (NIOSH approved), or leave the
area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Causes skin and respiratory
tract irritation. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when
not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.
FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts
of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact,
wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty,
provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, call Poison Control
Center, hospital emergency room, or physician immediately.
DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE.
Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous
system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating
and inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal.
WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of
California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
–4–


When using Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Advanced
Tinted Wood Protector:
CAUTIONS: Use Only With Adequate Ventilation. To avoid overexposure,
open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry
during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches,
or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protection
(NIOSH approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and
skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use.
Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.
FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large
amounts of water. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If
swallowed, call Poison Control Center, hospital emergency room,
or physician immediately.
WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of
California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Garden Chair plans

How to make a Simple Garden Chair page: 1 2
Page one: Plans - Materials and Cutting List
Page two: Instructions
User photos/comments

Introduction
This garden chair is an extremely simple design and is probably one of the easier chairs to construct.

Building this garden chair merely requires that you cut and drill all the pieces of lumber according to the detailed plans provided and then assemble all the pieces.

Once all the lumber pieces have been cut and the holes marked and drilled, simply line up the holes in the various pieces (according to plan), place the bolts in the holes and the chair frame will take shape automatically!

Below is a drawing of every different piece of wood used in this project and a cross-section drawing showing all the pieces in place. Each drawing shows angle cuts, dimensions and the placement of any bolt holes.

To help you even further, the drawings are followed by further explanation, information about lumber sizes and notes regarding measurements.

All the individual pieces


[a] Front leg. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
b] Rear leg. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
[c] Back support. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
[d] Seat support. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
[e] Armrest support. 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.
[f] Common slats. 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 6 pieces as per plan above.
[h] Front seat slat. 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 1 piece as per plan above.
[i] Arm rest. 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock. Cut 2 pieces as per plan above.

Altogether you will need 6.6 meters (22ft) of 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") stock and 6 meters (20ft) of 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") stock.

You will also need 10 galvanized carriage bolts 10mm (3/8") x 100mm (4") with nuts and washers, and 40 wood screws that are 50mm (2") long.

About lumber and sizes
Only two common stock sizes (widths and thicknesses) are required for this project.
They are dressed or surfaced 100x50 (2"x4") and 100x25 (1"x4").

When 100x50 (2"x4") lumber is dressed or surfaced, the size becomes approximately 90x45 (1 1/2"x 3 1/2") which is called the 'actual size'.
When 100x25 (1"x4") lumber is dressed or surfaced, the size becomes approximately 90x20 (3/4"x 3 1/2") which is called the 'actual size'.

All the measurements referred to in this project are the 'actual sizes'.

Use a lumber that is suitable for exterior use.

Dimensions for this project are both metric and imperial. All measurements are given in millimeters first, followed by feet and/or inches in brackets ( ). The metric sizes are not an exact match to the equivalent imperial sizes. A chair built using the metric measurements will be approximately 1.6% smaller than a chair built using the imperial (ft and in) measurements. The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited to Australasia.

Instructions
This garden chair is constructed solely from 100x50 (2x4) and 100x25 (1x4) lumber.
Both are common stock sizes and can be obtained from most lumber stores.
Note that when lumber is dressed or surfaced, the finished (actual) size (width and thickness) is less than the nominal size. The sizes referred to in this project are the actual sizes.
There is further information on lumber and sizes on the previous page along with detailed drawings of every part showing dimensions, angle cuts and exact placement of required bolt holes.

Step 1.
Cut all the individual pieces to the sizes and shapes according to the plans on the previous page.

Step 2.
Mark and drill 10mm (3/8") bolt holes where required according to the plans on the previous page.

Step 3.
Assemble the two side frames.
Lay members [e] and [d] on even ground or bench and then lay members [a],[b] and [c] on top with the bolt holes in line. Then bolt the members together.
Screw the bottom of member [c] to member [b].
Refer to the side view plan if you need to.
Note that the two side frames will be a mirror image of each other. See fig.1.




Step 4.
Lay the frames on their backs to commence fixing the slats. See fig.2.
Space the side frames 640mm (25 1/2") apart and ensure that they are parallel.
Pre-drill screw holes through the slats (two at each meeting) and then screw the slats in place to members [c]. See the front view plan for placement.

Step 5.
Stand the chair frames upright ensuring members [d] are parallel. Pre-drill screw holes through the seat slats (two at each meeting) and then screw the slats in place. See the top view plan for placement.

Step 6.
Pre-drill screw holes through the two arm rests [i] and then screw them in place to the arm rest supports [e].
All done!